Ropework
Do all requirements (1-4)
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STEP 1
STEP 1
Explain how the low-impact camping method (See The Trailman’s Handbook) relates to ropework and helps fulfill the Trailman Oath to “be a good steward of creation.”
STEP 2
STEP 2
Whipping & Fusing
A: Demonstrate whipping the ends of a natural fiber rope.
A: Demonstrate whipping the ends of a natural fiber rope.
A cut or damaged end of a rope can result in the rope's cords fraying more over time, which naturally causes the rope to be less useful as the damage continues. The purpose of "whipping" the end of a rope is to bind the rope's cords to reduce further damage in an effort to lengthen the rope's lifespan.
This method works well for hemp or other natural fiber based ropes where "Fusing" the end of rope does not work well to prevent further end damage.
In general - a much smaller rope is tied (or whipped) numerous times around the end of a larger, frayed rope - the tying of which also binds the smaller rope in place.
How To
Lay the the twine along the rope and make a bight back along the rope. Note that the rope should be whipped a short distance (one and a half times the diameter) from its end.
Begin wrapping the twine around the rope and bight of twine securely. Wrap until the whipping is one and a half times wider than the rope is thick.
Run the working end of the twine through the bight. Carefully pull on the standing end of the twine until the bight and working end are pulled under the whipping (Note: It is normally necessary to maintain tension on the working end to prevent the bight from being dragged completely through otherwise the whipping will fall apart.) Cut the twine flush with the edges of the whipping to give the rope end a finished look.
B: Demonstrate fusing the ends of a synthetic rope.
B: Demonstrate fusing the ends of a synthetic rope.
A cut or damaged end of a rope can result in the rope's cords fraying more over time, which naturally causes the rope to be less useful as the damage continues. The purpose of "fusing" the end of a rope is to bind the rope's cords to reduce further damage in an effort to lengthen the rope's lifespan.
This method works well for nylon or synthetic made rope. In general, the frayed end of the rope is gently melted using a small flame. The melting binds the end of the rope together, which prevents further fraying and end damage.
When melting the rope, melt slowly and gently - too fast and the rope may ignite or cause hot material to drip. While cooling, be careful to not touch the end against other objects, which can leave hot material where you might not want it, or against your skin, which can result a serious burn!
STEP 3
STEP 3
Tie the following knots and describe their usefulness:
Square Knot
Square Knot
Advantages
Easy and quick to tie
Elegant
Disadvantages
Only suited for light duty. Unsafe for tying or binding heavy loads and life-saving
Uses
Joining two ropes to make one long rope
As a substitute for cargo straps
Camping
Bowline
Bowline
Advantages
It does not slip or bind under load
Fast and easy to tie and untie
Does not jam
Disadvantages
If there is a load in the standing end, it cannot be tied or untied. Hence, it should be avoided in that case.
Its ease of untying makes it unsuitable for situations requiring extreme safety such as mountain and rock climbing.
Uses
To tie a mooring line around a tree, post, pole, anchor, ring, ladder, or any other object.
Boating, sailing, fishing.
It is thrown and tied around the waist for rescue operations, firefighting.
For hanging hammocks, using guy lines, tying a horse safely, connecting a handle line to a kite.
Two Half-Hitches
Two Half-Hitches
Advantages
Non-jamming release
Adjustable
Secure
Ties quickly
Disadvantages
Difficult to untie
Uses
To tie guy lines to a dining fly.
Tying boats to pilings.
Securing the ends of a rope that ties things to the top rack of a van.
Two half hitches and a taut line hitch are used to set up tents.
When added to a timber hitch near the hauling end, helps in hoisting and prevents the load from twisting.
Taut Line Hitch
Taut Line Hitch
Advantages
Easy and quick to tie and untie
Does not slip
Disadvantages
None!
Uses
Tying tents, tarps, or hammocks to tent poles
Anytime it's necessary to achieve a tight line for any application.
Clove Hitch
Clove Hitch
Advantages
The rope on either side of the hitch can be adjusted without untying the knot
Can be tied with one hand effectively shortening belay transitions
Holds tight when 1 strand is weighted
Disadvantages
Can slip easily
Unreliable when tied to a rectangular or square post
Thinner ropes, when heavily loaded may be difficult to untie
Uses
It's often the starting knot for lashings
Timber Hitch
Timber Hitch
Advantages
Easy to tie and untie even under a heavy load
Does not slip
Disadvantages
Secure only as long as tension is maintained.
Uses
Pulling heavy items
It's the starting knot for some lashings
STEP 4
STEP 4
Lashing
4A. Tie the following lashings and describe their function:
4A. Tie the following lashings and describe their function:
i. Square Lashing
i. Square Lashing
Description
Square lashing is a type of lashing used to bind spars together. There are different types,
but all consist of a series of wraps around the spars, and fraps around the wraps between the spars.
Use
Used when lashing two spars together at, or near, right angles to each other.
The lashing is designed to be load bearing and can be used to create scaffolding.
Square lashings can also be used to make a rectangular frame.
Tying
1. Start by tying a clove hitch around one of the poles.
2. Twist the loose end from the clove hitch around the rope and then wrap the rope around the two poles.
3. When laying the turns, the rope goes on the outside of the previous turns around the cross piece and on the inside of the existing wraps on the other piece.
4. Continue wrapping the rope around the poles following the “inside – outside” sequence.
5. Once you have enough wraps to give you the strength you need, guide the rope horizontally between the two poles.
6. Wrap the rope around the knot between the poles. This is called frapping. Pull the frapping as tight as possible and then add another turn.
7. Finish the lashing with a clove hitch around the end of a cross piece.
ii. Diagonal Lashing
ii. Diagonal Lashing
Description
Diagonal lashing is a type of lashing used to bind spars or poles together, to prevent racking.
Use
It is usually applied to cross-bracing where the poles do not initially touch, but may by
used on any poles that cross each other at a 45° to 90° angle. Large, semipermanent structures
may be built with a combination of square lashing and diagonal lashing. Square lashing is
used for load bearing and diagonal lashing is used for cross bracing.
Tying
1. Start by tying a timber hitch diagonally around both poles.
2. Wrap the rope around the both poles three or four times in the same direction.
3. Start the second set of wrapping turns by going past and around the vertical pole.
4. Once you have enough wraps to give you the strength you need, guide the rope horizontally between the two poles.
5. Wrap the rope around the knot between the poles. This is called frapping. Pull the frapping as tight as possible.
6. Finish the lashing with a clove hitch around the end of a cross piece.
iii. Shear Lashing
iii. Shear Lashing
Description
Shear lashing (two-spar shear lashing) also spelled “sheer lashing” is most often used when spar legs are to be spread apart to form an A-frame. The clove hitch is tied around one leg only and frapping turns are taken between the poles.
Use
Shear lashing is most often used when spar legs are to be spread apart to form an A-frame.
It is also a good way to reinforce a broken or weak pole. The frapping turns used to tighten
the lashing may be omitted and replaced with wedges inserted between the poles.
Other names
Shear lashing, Sheer lashing, Two-spar lashing
Tying
1. Start by tying a clove hitch around one of the poles.
2. Wrap the rope neatly around both spars several times.
3. Pass the rope between the poles to make two frapping turns.
4. Finish the lashing with a clove hitch.
iv. Tripod Lashing
iv. Tripod Lashing
Description
The tripod lashing is a shear lashing that binds three poles together at the same point.
Use
The most common use of this lashing is to join three spars together to form a tripod.
The tripod lashing can be used just about anywhere in a structure that three poles cross
each other at the same point and the same time in the sequence of construction.
Other names
Tripod lashing, Gyn lashing, Figure of eight lashing, Three-spar shear lashing
Tying
1. Start by tying a clove hitch around one of the poles.
2. Weave the rope between the poles.
3. Continue weaving until there are about five or six turns around the poles.
4. Pass the rope between the poles.
5. Make two frapping turns between the poles.
6. Make two frapping turns between the other two poles.
7. Finish the lashing with a clove hitch.
v. Round Lashing
v. Round Lashing
Description
The round lashing (also known as vertical lashing) is used to join two poles together to extend their length.
Use
Used to join two poles together to extend their length. The objective is to combine the spars
together to make a longer length that is as rigid as possible.
Security
For increased security you can add two wedges between the poles, one above and one below the
lashing. This makes the lashing really tight.
Other names
Round lashing, Vertical lashing
Tying
1. Start by tying a clove hitch round the poles.
2. Wrap the rope neatly around both poles several times.
3. Finish the lashing with a clove hitch.
vi. Floor Lashing
vi. Floor Lashing
Function
The Floor Lashing is used to form flat surfaces such as a deck, table top, tower floor, or bridge walkway. It is a bit more involved lashing since it involves managing and wrapping many spars. It has two components: decking and stringer spars. Decking spars form the flat part of the floor and are placed on top of two stringer spars which support the floor and help it keep shape. There are two stringer spars placed perpendicular to the decking spars at each end.
Advanced Tips!
When placing the decking poles on the stringers, lay the decking poles so that their butt end are in alternating direction. Alternating the but ends of the decking poles will compensate for the natural taper of the poles so that the length of the decking along each stringer will be equal.
Try lashing the decking spars at the same time to the stringers to insure a firm even surface!
How To
Lay the poles side by side on top of the stringers
Tie a clove hitch around each stringer.
Secure the short end of the rope by twisting it around the length of the remaining rope.
Make a bend (or bight) in the rope and pass the entire bend over the first decking spar on the inside of the stringer.
Grab the bend from underneath the stringer and loop the bend over the end of first decking spar on the outside of the stringer.
Pull the loop tight against the decking spar and stringer.
Feed the running length of the rope back under the stringer and then up on the inside the second decking spar.
Same as the first bend, form a second bend and pass that over the second decking spar.
Also like the first bend, pass this bend under the stringer and then around the end of the second decking spar
Repeat this process until all the poles are bound to the stringer.
When you reach the end, secure the rope against the stringer with a clove hitch.
4B. Lash the Following Trestles:
4B. Lash the Following Trestles:
i. X-Trestle
i. X-Trestle
Trestles are used to form the supporting framework for larger structures (bracers, walls, legs, etc.) such as bridges and towers. The X-Trestle also forms the ends of a Monkey Bridge
How To
Lay the two legs on the ground side by side with the butt ends (the larger diameter ends) of the spars at the same end and even with one another.
With a loose shear lashing, secure them at the halfway point of their length.
Form the X by spreading apart the butt ends of the spars.
Create stability by lashing a horizontal ledger in place with square lashings.
ii. A-Trestle
ii. A-Trestle
Trestles are used to form the supporting framework for larger structures (bracers, walls, legs, etc.) such as bridges and towers.
How To
This design forms an A-shaped trestle that can be used for a variety of bridge plans.
Lay the two legs on the ground side by side with the butt ends (the larger diameter ends) of the spars at the same end and even with one another.
Form a loose shear lashing a foot from the narrower ends of the spars.
Spread apart the butt ends of the spars to form the A shape.
Use square lashings to add two ledgers (bottom ledger and top transom) to the legs.
iii. H-Trestle
iii. H-Trestle
Trestles are used to form the supporting framework for larger structures (bracers, walls, legs, etc.) such as bridges and towers.
How To
All of the lashings on an H-trestle are square lashings except for the diagonal lashing used to secure the cross braces to one another.
Lay the two legs on the ground with the butt ends (the larger-diameter ends) of the spars at the same end and even with one another. Secure the horizontal ledgers in place with square lashings.
Add the cross braces. The cross braces are lashed to the legs in a particular sequence.
Position one cross brace so that it is on the side of the spars opposite the ledgers. Lash the cross brace to the spars with square lashings.
Position the second cross brace so that one end is on the same side of the spars as the ledgers, but the other end is on the opposite side. Lash the second cross brace to the spars with square lashings. There will be a slight gap between the cross braces where they cross one another.
Stand the trestle up. Make sure the legs, ledgers, and cross braces are all properly positioned and secure. If everything looks good, use a diagonal lashing to pull together the two cross braces where they are closest to each other. That will add tremendous stability to the trestle and complete the structure. If adjustments must be made, lay the trestle down and get everything in order before making the diagonal lashing.
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